
Photo: Leiff Josefsen
Sailing along Greenlands west coast
Tina Lauritsen Jagd talks about being guide on the passenger ship Sarfaq Ittuk.
By greenland today
04 JULY 2012
In the fall of 2011 announced Jette Larsen, who is director of the Arctic Umiaq Line, they will hire a ship guide as a courtesy to the tourists in summer.
It tells Tina Lauritsen Jagd, who herself immediately sent a request to keep her summer vacation as a guide on board three weeks in June, away from her daily work in the travel agency Culture Adventure.

At sea
– I kept a daily lecture on the country or the areas we sailed in. Went on small city tours and arranged Greenland tours with local organizers in major cities, says Tina.
– I helped tourists with many things, but to sit and talk with tourists over coffee in the cozy Café Sarfaq – it was the nicest, she smiles.

Photo: Gert Otto Hansen
Love for each port – starting in Narsaq
– Many hours before arrival at Narsaq, the ship sails through Torsukattat which is very narrow and shallow. The crew tips on water depth, and I hit it almost right every time.
– Small ice floes and very, very green mountains. That’s how I remember Narsaq. Very picturesque small town with an exciting future if they start the extraction of minerals.

Qaqortoq
– All who know me know that my heart melts every time Qaqortoq are mentioned. I was born and raised there, and I think that everyone in the world should see my beautiful hometown. »Absolutely neutral« is Qaqortoq the prettiest town in Greenland, says Tina with a laugh.
– Houses nicely scattered over a beautiful area with mountains and valleys. Very lush and vibrant city. I told the guests on board that they should take on “Stone & Man” hunting and if they had time, they should not miss a trip to the hot springs at Uunartoq.
– The ship »overnight« as the only place on the coast, and I slept at home in my father’s house when we were in port. Lovely just seeing my beloved father and the city in general.


Arsuk
– The first small harbor where the ship can not dock. A small tenderboat are hoisted down and sail passengers into the harbor. I was allowed to go along each time there was room. At one time there were 30 who went aboard. They had been to a familyparty and the whole town was almost empty after their departure.
– Another time, there was a team of geologists going ashore there, to be stationed in the Ivittuut area and for several months.

Paamiut
– Either late or early arrival. The city is known for the bad weather, but at no time while I was there, the weather was bad. The town’s church was beautiful and inviting.
– Early morning at six – the number of people on the quay could almost be counted on one hand, but by late arrival, the quay could be surprisingly crowded.
Qeqertarsuatsiaaq
– The settlement is the only one that the ship can enter. We had a full hour, and I went for a walk with guests every time. What a lovely little village.
– I talked pleasantly about village life. But the best story from there is Pele. He collects stones in his spare time and refines them when he gets home. The area is said to have tons of rare stones – such as rubies, gold, and many others I can not remember. But it is very beautiful stones.
– For photo enthusiasts the hinterlands are TOTALLY amazing to photograph.

Nuuk
– As South Greenlander is it quite amazing to be in Nuuk. As the capital, I think the city has everything and more. The mountain Sermitsiaq can be seen from anywhere in town.
– Nuuk is buzzing, busy, and planes are constantly taking off and landing, there’s roundabouts all over and many delicious cafes. And all this, are just next to beautiful fjords.


Maniitsoq
– It turned out that I fell in love with the beautiful city Maniitsoq and the area. Not many tourists who are embarking or disembarking here, so maybe it’s an »undiscovered« gem.
– I had heard about the many bridges and stairs, and there is heliskiing near the city. But I had not heard how stunningly beautiful the city is.
– From the museum area you can walk through a tunnel to a place called »whale viewing,« and with a good free binoculars spotting for all marine animals and the many glaciers on the other side of the strait.
– The town itself is very presentable, and the colorful houses are even more clear than in other cities, as there are rocks all over.
– The voyage was the most beautiful for me on the whole route – to and from Maniitsoq. The trip through Hamburg Sound, with its high mountains, numerous glaciers and lots of humpback whales.
– Arrival and departure in Maniitsoq is either early morning or late evening, sunrise and sunset has probably also had a small effect, says Tina.

Kangaamiut
– On a southbound trip, I sat with four older Greenlandic women who came aboard in Kangaamiut. They ate dried fish and talked at once, and each had a lot to talk about from their village.
– All agreed that the area’s beautiful hinterland and the beautiful Eternity Fjord, is the reason that they can never leave this place.
– They talked about fishing trips, tent camps, berry picking, and to stay in Evighedsfjorden as the best God has created here on earth. I must get in there one day, says Tina.


Sisimiut
Again a very nice entry. Beautiful colorful houses on the rocks. One senses not really that it is Greenland’s second largest city, when one enters. But the length of the entrance and the amount of people on the quay, tells it.
– I met an acquaintance from my hometown Qaqortoq who has opened a new store three years ago. I heard her story of musk-wool and her growing exports of the world’s softest and warmest wool.
– So of course I referred all guests onboard to her little shop, and some came back with filled bags and Christmas lights in their eyes.


Aasiaat
– On a northbound voyage, there were early arrival Sunday morning. There were lots of seals and some hunters were already on the seal hunt from five o’clock in the morning.
– Some tourists were up on deck for several hours before we call at eight o’clock. There was a very special atmosphere with the midnight sun and sailing close to shore.
– In the village hall is a very nice collection of the Danish artist Per Kirkeby, as he once gave to the city, explains Tina.


Ilulissat
– I loved to feel how excited people were when exiting Aasiaat. We spotted the whales and not least the first large icebergs. Many took pictures of the individual icebergs without knowing they’re going to see hundreds and take lots of pictures.
– Soon, the captain took the move of the ship, for not crashing into the many ice floes south of the mouth of the Ilulissat Ice Fjord. The sun crashed down and people were speechless. Words like »never seen anything like this,« »This is great« and »it’s indescribable,« was used every time we sailed to Ilulissat.
– I know the town of Ilulissat and also loves the city. It was fun to see and feel the thrill tourists had when we were sailing between all the icebergs.
– We had along the way heard of the many cruise ships could not sail in the harbor in Ilulissat because of too much ice, but time after time, our captain made it through the ice and came safely to port.

Greenland – human’s land
»Cruising with the locals« – is the biggest plus of such a trip. Many people asked me why there were so many Greenlanders who wept at departure. And I explained that many of the locals only see each other once a year. When calling, we fortunately also saw tears of joy. Everyone was very touched by it.
– The atmosphere in the café, card games, conversation and laughter from the Greenlanders is the best. Their laughter is indescribably beautiful and contagious. And I’m still proud and soft-hearted when I fall into conversation with people from the coast.
Future at the Sea
– As it probably appear, I was completely hooked by being aboard the Arctic Umiaq Lines ship. Therefore I have now resigned my former good job, and starts on August 1’th as the matron on the ship Sarfaq Ittuk.
– It will be five weeks at sea and five weeks at home, and I think my family is cool that they have given me the chance to try it, a happy Tina Lauritsen Jagd ends.

